Congratulations on your Bioactive Starter Kit! The Happy Spider is thrilled to assist with your bioactive journey. Every purchase from The Happy Spider contributes to important research projects that will improve our understanding of how certain relationships benefit the bioactive experience. For more information about ongoing research projects, please visit www.thehappyspider.com. Again, thank you for your support.

The items listed below are included in The Happy Spider Bioactive Starter Kit:

1. Tropical or Arid Substrate (6 pound bag)

2. Volcanic Rock

3. Worm Castings

4. Worm Casting Concentrate

5. Beneficial Bacteria

6. Springtails (arid or tropical)

7. Isopods (clean-up crew)

The following instructions outline the best way to utilize each item of the Bioactive Starter Kit for optimal results.

 

STEP 1: Dump volcanic rock contents into a large bowl, reserving a shallow layer of volcanic rock in the original container. Shake the beneficial bacteria spray bottle vigorously to mix contents. Spray the volcanic rock layer in the original container with beneficial bacteria. Pour another layer of volcanic rock on top of the original layer. Spray with beneficial bacteria. Repeat these steps until ALL the volcanic rock has been returned to the original container. Close lid. Place container in a dark, warm location for at least two (2) weeks for optimal inoculation.

*The next steps assume that you have assembled a background (if desired) & planned out the overall layout of your enclosure build. You are now ready to add terrain elements to the terrarium.

 

STEP 2: Place volcanic rock at the bottom of the enclosure. This will be the drainage layer of the terrarium. For best results, there should be at least 1.5 to 2 inches for the drainage layer.

 

STEP 3: Tropical vs. Arid Enclosure

Based on which kit you purchased, the following step will differ whether you are creating an arid or tropical enclosure.

Tropical Enclosures – If using the entire bag of tropical substrate, mix approximately 3/4 of the worm castings (dry contents…not the liquid fertilizer) into the substrate. When using only a portion of the substrate, use similar ratio (1 part worm castings to 6 parts substrate; 1:6). Mixing is best done in a separate container like a plastic tote. Mix thoroughly.

Arid Enclosures – The amount of worm castings you use in the arid substrate directly contributes to the soil’s ability to absorb and retain water. Based on your primary inhabitant’s arid requirements, add the appropriate amount of worm castings to the arid substrate. Mixing is best done in a separate container like a plastic tote. Mix thoroughly.

For example: If I was using the entire bag of arid substrate for a Pelinobius muticus (King baboon tarantula), I would mix approximately 2 cups of worm castings into the substrate (6 lbs). This species does best with dry substrate. I would only wet areas with plants, which should be drought resistant such as succulents, etc. If you decide not to use plants for a species like the King baboon, I suggest soaking the area around the water dish approximately every 2 months (this timeline is dependent on the humidity in your area & will vary depending on the current conditions), allowing it to dry out. Remember to always keep water in their dish.

Don’t worry too much about the distribution of worm castings. You have the ultimate ability to control the substrate’s moisture retention...just don’t water too much! Remaining worm castings can be used with house plants, isopod cultures, tropical springtail cultures, or you can save them for your next enclosure build.

 

STEP 4: Spread remaining worm castings on top of drainage layer as evenly as possible (for tropical directions). Those creating arid enclosures, only sprinkle a handful or two across the top of the drainage layer.

 

STEP 5: Pour substrate mix directly on top of worm castings and the drainage layer. Create desired landscape terrain and thoroughly pack in items like cork bark, decorative wood structures, etc. Consider your placement of the tarantula’s lair, etc. Have fun thinking tactically…Think like a tarantula!

 

STEP 6: Place your properly sterilized* plants in the enclosure. Think about each plant’s growth process and place accordingly. Scoop out a hole for each plant. Gently place roots in the opening and firmly pack substrate around the plant. Repeat this process as needed.

*visit www.thehappyspider.com for my favorite ways to sterilize plants.

 

STEP 7: Personally, I find using moss around the base of plants helpful in maintaining appropriate moisture levels. If using moss, place it as desired throughout the enclosure. Once the moss has been placed, take this opportunity to place the springtails and isopods into the enclosure. Take a moment to enjoy watching these amazing creatures check out their new home.

 

STEP 8: Place leaf litter and other biodegradables throughout the enclosure. This is an important step in creating a bioactive enclosure. Providing adequate leaf litter will help maintain healthy populations of springtails and isopods.

 

STEP 9: Mix the worm concentrate per instructions on the bottle. This fertilizer has so many applications, so don’t be worried if you don’t have enough enclosures to use up 1 gallon of this “nectar.” The liquid fertilizer can be used for all houseplants, lawns, roses and in bioactive enclosures. The fertilizer does NOT expire, so you can use the remaining mixture for the next watering…and the one after that…and so on. I fertilize my bioactive enclosures from mid-March to mid-October, every year. Most plants benefit from weekly watering. During the growing season, “water” with mixed worm concentrate fertilizer.

 

STEP 10: Place temperature and humidity gauges in an appropriate and functional spot.

 

STEP 11: If you just created a tropical enclosure, I like to complete the process by misting the enclosure with spring water.

 

STEP 12: Congratulations, you just finished a bioactive enclosure! You can transfer your tarantula to its new home upon completion. However, it may be best to let your enclosure stabilize for a couple weeks to a month if transferring a more substantial primary inhabitant, such as a bearded dragon, etc.

 

STEP 13: Your bioactive enclosure should be placed in a location away from direct sunlight. Proper temperature and humidity requirements for your specific tarantula should be consistently maintained. The living plants in your new bioactive enclosure need full spectrum lighting. There are several amazing products for your specific set-up needs available online. The springtails and isopods will no longer require any specialized care once the primary inhabitant is transferred. They will feed on feces, boluses, and other organic matter in the enclosure. However, always maintain proper water requirements for springtails (this includes arid species) and isopods. These critters need water to breath.

 

STEP 14: Once your enclosure is 4 to 6 months old, you can spray the base of plants with the beneficial bacteria spray to keep the biome in optimal health. Repeat as needed throughout the life of the enclosure.

 

ENJOY your bioactive creation!